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by Charlotte Jul

Pattern intricacy

Wow! Marie Gudme Leth is the uncontested master of Danish textile design.

Her patterns are intricate, prolific, unique, exotic and even trendy today when nature and patterns are once again important elements of fashion, art and living. Gudme Leth set a fashion and made a regular science of composition, form, colours and textile printing. All her patterns were drawn by hand and printed on textile in a long and arduous work process that could take weeks. One of her patterns, Calicot, was even converted into a wallpaper by the Dahl Brothers wallpaper factory.

Kirsebær, 1946. Tekstiltryk, 0,79 x 4,5 m, 6 farver, vistra (cellulosefiber). Kunstindustrimuseet. Foto Pernille Klemp og Ole Woldbye

 

Light and hard work
The life work of Marie Gudme Leth is important because it comprises several landmarks. She made textile printing a recognised art form and hyped up the craft. As a teacher at the School of Decorative Art in Denmark (Kunsthaandværkerskolen), she influenced a whole generation of students, including Arne Jacobsen's wife, Jonna, who created a number of beautiful textiles in collaboration with Arne in the 1950s. On top of that Gudme Leth was an ambitious and independent woman who was passionate about her craft - a feminist in today's perspective.

Her obvious fascination with and travels to 'unknown' places  such as Java, Mexico, Turkey and Egypt made her atypical. Many of her works reflected this inspiration. Through her participation in three world exhibitions in 1937, 1939 and 1955, she contributed to the world fame of Danish textile design.

Who'll be first?
To Gudme Leth, nature with its birds, leaves and flowers was a treasury of incredible colours and shapes.

Her Swedish counterpart was Josef Frank and their idioms with nature as the primary source of inspiration are very alike. Josef Frank has experienced a great renaissance in recent years and like Gudme Leth he was incredibly productive. Frank created more than 200 different patterns of which some are now available through Svensk Tenn in Malmoe. Finnish Marimekko has also seen a revival in the last four years - and the market is ready for more! I prophesy that Marie Gudme Leth's wallpapers and textiles will have a similar renaissance. They can be seen by appointment at the Danish Museum of Art & Design in Copenhagen.

I wonder who will be the first to put her textiles into production?

Charlotte Jul is design writer and editor at KUNSTUFF, a Danish handicraft and design magazine.

Cherry, 1946. Textile print, 0,79 x 4,5 m, 6 colors, vistra
Museum of Decorative Art. Photo: Pernille Klemp and Ole Woldbye.

facts

Work:
The life work of Marie Gudme Leths

Artist:
Marie Gudme Leth (1895-1997)

Work exhibitioned:
Museum of Decorative Art
Bredgade 68
1260 København K

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